$begingroup$
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zidmpnja-kU
I'm using a Sparkfun CANBus shield to communicate to the MS. The gauge is a gutted ebay gauge, Adafruit Neopixel ring, Adafruit 1.3' OLED screen. I originally tried to use a cheaper arduino, but the OLED screen requires about 1.5k of ram and arduino's usually only have 2/2.5k. I'm currently working on getting my LC-1 to talk to it (I've got another benchtop setup talking to the LC-1, but I'm still looking at how to get the data into MS cleanly - is it best to have MS poll like whats done in the tinyiox board? Or can I do a msg_cmd and write directly to MS?)
Each LED responds to a 1-1000 color gradient that I normalize to a variable. The 12 o'clock position is the delta between the AFR and AFR target - so that green is close, blue is rich, red is lean. 9-11:30 is RPM, 12:30-3 is AFR. 8:30 is TPS, 6:30 is CLT. At > 240f it begins to blink, at 260 the entire gauge turns red and the value is shown in the screen center. 5:30 is MAT, 3:30 is MAP. I've got 3 extra LED's that will be monitoring oil pressure, oil temperature, and EGT once I wire my PLX Gauges into the MS (since I've got a spare com port on the mega, I might try a crack at reading the PLX datastream and writing to MS - or I might just go with the generic 0-5v and save me some coding). This allows me quick 'at a glance' to see if everything is running within bounds (I might change some of this logic once I get the gauge in the car so I'm not distracted by red lights - I'm waiting on some final harnesses so I can pop everything in and out cleanly).
Menu's are controlled via a rotary encoder I've got bolted into my fuse box cover. Pushing down on it changes the menu or selects the item, while turning it flips through different values. There are 3 different menu's shown in the video. The histogram was added pretty much 'because I could' - I've never found it useful with my PLX gauge. The dotted line in the middle represents 14.7 in AFR or Barometer in MAP. I've also included a high/low on the single item view for a couple of variables - the values expire after 30 seconds, though I might play with that value some.
I *think* I'm the first person to talk to megasquirt via the MCP2515 canbus transceiver, and I've tried to document the project and talking to arduino at kckr.net (forgive me, I'm still documenting and finishing up the gauge so it's still incomplete). I've published some example code for communicating with the MCP2515 at github, and once I get the featureset finished and clean up my awful terrible code I'll publish that as well.
Overall, I think I've got about $200 in parts for this gauge (the Canbus shield at $45 and the Mega at $56 being the largest two expenses). I've been thinking about possibly seeing if I could make this more affordable by going with an AT90CAN (at $14 to replace the mega and shield.. yeah, economically way better). This has been my largest electronics project to date and it's been a lot of fun and frustration.
So - before I put a fork in this and call it done - any features y'all think would be cool to add?
I got an ATMEGA328P-PU , already bootloaded , but when I tried to upload the program (a simple program for blinking the LED on pin 13 ) I'm getting an error as :
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
I have googled a lot and have tried numerous way to get rid of this error viz :
-press reset just before selecting Upload menu item
-correct Serial Port selected
-correct driver installed
-chip inserted into the Arduino properly
and followed every instruction on www.arduino.ccbut heck
thebuggerthebugger
$endgroup$4 Answers
How Can I At90can128 Bootloader With Arduino Code
$begingroup$Have you ever programmed your ATmega328P successfully before? If not, that message most likely mean a configuration problem. It is just saying your IDE can't communicate with the MCU. It may take a while before you can successfuly program your ATmega for the first time. In this case, I can't help you without more information about your setup.
If you were able to program it at some point, but can't do it anymore, then the message you're getting from avrdude may be a sign that your MCU is no longer working.
To check if your ATmega is still alive, follow these instructions:
- Does the ATmega still display its heartbeat? Normally the bootloader for Arduino Uno and similar boards have a heartbeat feature to tell the users it's alive: it's three quick blinks on the LED attached to pin 13, right after boot. Does yours still do it? If so, you can relax: it's alive.
- If it does not blink three times anymore, has it ever blinked after boot before? For example, when you hooked up your Arduino board to a USB port in your computer (I'm assuming you have a USB board), has it ever blinked three times after boot?
I don't want to alarm you or anything. I'm not saying that your ATmega is burnt. But it is kind of difficult to really know when it is burnt. The message you're getting is one sign of it, but can be many other things. I have burned 3 of those chips, myself, and it is a sad moment, that's for sure.
In my case, a few things hinted at the problem. Before I had the problem, I was able to program my MCU using my Arduino Uno board. At some point, I did something that made the MCU stop working. Often is some short-circuit I caused when making changes to a circuit in a breadboard. After that event, the heartbeat stopped and I could no longer program the chip with my Arduino Uno nor burn a bootloader on it. The message from avrdude in all my cases were the same one you're getting. I could however program other ATmegas I had laying around using both methods (that meant it wasn't a problem with the board).
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If your MCU continues to do the heartbeat, then it's alive and you are experiencing some other problem, probably communication or IDE configuration. What I usually try next is to burn the bootloader again. If the MCU is ok, it will happily take the bootloader. This way, you also make sure the right bootloader is in place.
RicardoRicardo4,4471414 gold badges3838 silver badges7777 bronze badges
$endgroup$$begingroup$I would suggest buying one with the bootloader already programmed. That way you know can hook it up and verify the heartbeat blinks on power up. Once you have that try to load the blink sketch.
You say you are putting this in an Arduino? It could be that the usb interface chip is bad. What model board?
BrianKBrianK
$endgroup$$begingroup$In your tags you used Arduino so I guess you have one.
So first I woud place the ATMEGA328P-PU in right direction onto the board (nose in ICSP-Pin direction). Try to burn the Bootloader once more and if you have also try to use a other ATMEGA328P-PU MCU. After this try to upload the blink-program again.
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$endgroup$$begingroup$The best way to make sure you have the right bootloader is of course to program it yourself. If the issue persists after flashing the right bootloader (or you can't flash the bootloader), the next suspect would be baudrate mismatch. You will have to check the following settings:
- the right target board is selected in IDE settings
- the XTAL clock (
f_cpu
paramter inboard.txt
) matches what you really have on your board (many Arduino clones are mostly compatible with original except for quartz frequency) - the baud rate for uploading your software (
upload.speed
parameter inboard.txt
) matches whatever bootloader you have (if you can't reflash the bootloader, you may want try several values and see which one works. Default is usually 19200).
Note that there'a great site https://arduino.stackexchange.com/ where Arduino experts hang out, so in the future you may want to ask your Arduino-specific questions there.
Dmitry GrigoryevDmitry Grigoryev19.1k22 gold badges3030 silver badges7878 bronze badges
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$begingroup$I am very new to embedded world. I had been till now working only on S/W
How Can I At90can Bootloader With Arduino File
Can anyone please explain me the use of the Arduino Bootloader? I want Arduino to perform some simple mathematics using some additional components that have to be put in to the chip.
Do I necessarily need a bootloader?
Chetan Bhargava4,26155 gold badges2121 silver badges3737 bronze badges
JohnnyJohnny
$endgroup$3 Answers
$begingroup$The Arduino is basically just an Atmel AVR microcontroller, with just enough support electronics to allow it to operate. The AVR has built-in flash to allow it to keep programs with the power off, but to program an AVR chip directly you need a tool like the STK-500 to do the job. The Arduino overcomes this by also having a small USB interface on the board, and the Arduino boot-loader code already on the chip. This allows the PC side application to transfer your programs to the device, and in essence, have it flash itself.
So, bottom line, if you get an Arduino, the boot-loader is already there, and does its job automatically. You code your program on the PC, press the 'upload' button on the IDE, and within a few moments your program is running on the Arduino. The boot-loader does its job completely transparently.
fwiw, I personally have an Arduino 2009, and an STK-500 and can do on-the-metal programming on AVRs, but have found no need to bypass the Arduino's bootloader.
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$endgroup$$begingroup$The Arduino needs a bootloader in order to program your sketches over serial/USB. Without it you need an AVR In-System-Programmer (ISP) to program the flash memory in the AVR chip directly.
If you buy an Arduino, it'll come with the bootloader already burnt into the AVR chip. You only need to worry about it if you're building your own board.
This should help:I don't get the Arduino concept
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Toby JaffeyToby Jaffey
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$endgroup$$begingroup$I'll give a slightly more theoretical answer; the other answers are quite good from a practical perspective. A bootloader is code that resides in a special segment of flash memory. Code that resides in that segment is allowed to execute Self-Programming Instructions, making it possible to modify flash memory (i.e. where user code resides) without a conventional programmer (i.e. In-System Programming ISP or High-Voltage Programming HVP) like the STK500 or AVRISP mkII.
In principle, the UART Recieve Data Interrupt Service Routine (ISR) makes a function call into the bootloader code that copies the program image being sent serially into the user program space in flash memory. At startup, whatever program is on the chip starts running, but if appropriately formed serial data is received early on, the AVR goes into a sort of self-programming mode. There is some logic in the UART ISR that only defers to the bootloader code for a short period of time during startup. The details are a bit more complicated than that, but that's the basic idea.
The beauty of this is that you can buy an Arduino, and nothing else, download the free Integrated Development Environment (IDE), and start writing Arduino Sketches (programs), and download them onto the AVR just like that, over USB no less thanks to the fancy little FTDI IC chip that's integrated into the Arduino board.
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$endgroup$Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged arduinobootloader or ask your own question.
I've been working on this for the last couple of months, and it's nearly complete - thought it was time to finally unveil. I've made a lot of additional progress this winter break, but not quite enough to warrant a new video. Make sure you enable 1080p to see the detail on the youtube video. There isn't any noticeable flicker in the gauge (artifact from my camera) and the colors are hard to capture - I had to load up with a circular polarizing and UV filter to get this shot.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zidmpnja-kU
I'm using a Sparkfun CANBus shield to communicate to the MS. The gauge is a gutted ebay gauge, Adafruit Neopixel ring, Adafruit 1.3' OLED screen. I originally tried to use a cheaper arduino, but the OLED screen requires about 1.5k of ram and arduino's usually only have 2/2.5k. I'm currently working on getting my LC-1 to talk to it (I've got another benchtop setup talking to the LC-1, but I'm still looking at how to get the data into MS cleanly - is it best to have MS poll like whats done in the tinyiox board? Or can I do a msg_cmd and write directly to MS?)
Each LED responds to a 1-1000 color gradient that I normalize to a variable. The 12 o'clock position is the delta between the AFR and AFR target - so that green is close, blue is rich, red is lean. 9-11:30 is RPM, 12:30-3 is AFR. 8:30 is TPS, 6:30 is CLT. At > 240f it begins to blink, at 260 the entire gauge turns red and the value is shown in the screen center. 5:30 is MAT, 3:30 is MAP. I've got 3 extra LED's that will be monitoring oil pressure, oil temperature, and EGT once I wire my PLX Gauges into the MS (since I've got a spare com port on the mega, I might try a crack at reading the PLX datastream and writing to MS - or I might just go with the generic 0-5v and save me some coding). This allows me quick 'at a glance' to see if everything is running within bounds (I might change some of this logic once I get the gauge in the car so I'm not distracted by red lights - I'm waiting on some final harnesses so I can pop everything in and out cleanly).
I've made a few additional functions since I made this video - for instance, if RPM > 6800 and TPS > 90, the outer ring becomes a shift light for the last 800 RPM I have till I hit my rev limit.
Menu's are controlled via a rotary encoder I've got bolted into my fuse box cover. Pushing down on it changes the menu or selects the item, while turning it flips through different values. There are 3 different menu's shown in the video. The histogram was added pretty much 'because I could' - I've never found it useful with my PLX gauge. The dotted line in the middle represents 14.7 in AFR or Barometer in MAP. I've also included a high/low on the single item view for a couple of variables - the values expire after 30 seconds, though I might play with that value some.
I *think* I'm the first person to talk to megasquirt via the MCP2515 canbus transceiver, and I've tried to document the project and talking to arduino at kckr.net (forgive me, I'm still documenting and finishing up the gauge so it's still incomplete). I've published some example code for communicating with the MCP2515 at github, and once I get the featureset finished and clean up my awful terrible code I'll publish that as well.
Overall, I think I've got about $200 in parts for this gauge (the Canbus shield at $45 and the Mega at $56 being the largest two expenses). I've been thinking about possibly seeing if I could make this more affordable by going with an AT90CAN (at $14 to replace the mega and shield.. yeah, economically way better). This has been my largest electronics project to date and it's been a lot of fun and frustration.
So - before I put a fork in this and call it done - any features y'all think would be cool to add?
In this tutorial I will show you how to program an ATtiny2313 microcontroller chip using Arduino.
The ATtiny2313 and ATtiny4313 are 20 pin processor chips. It has 17 I/O pins, but it do not have an ADC. It can be configured to run at 1 MHz and 8 MHz without an External Crystal Oscillator. I previously shown you how to program the ATtiny85 using Arduino, which is an 8 pin chip suitable for much smaller projects.
Connect your Arduino to the Attiny2313 following these pins.
- Download the Arduino-Tiny library.
- Follow these instructions to install the library. (make sure the Arduino IDE is NOT running yet!)
- Upload the ArduinoISP to the Arduino
- Connect a 10 µF capacitor from reset to ground on the Arduino (If you are using Arduino Duemilanove use an 120 ohm resistor from reset to Vcc)
- Open the blink example sketch, change the LED pin number from 13 to 15 (which is pin 18 on the chip)
- Select Attiny2313 board from Tools->Board-> [email protected]. You will notice that you have a lot of options to choose. This is because that ‘tiny’ folder that we put in the ‘hardware’ folder gave the Arduino program more board options.
- Select ArduinoISP: Tools->Programmer->Arduino as ISP
- Upload your sketch by selecting File->Upload using programmer, if you are getting any error, check out this post to troubleshoot the problem.
- Connect a LED with resistor to pin PB6 on the ATtiny2313 or 4313 (pin number 18 on the chip)
- Now you should have a blinking LED on your Attiny2313
Check this diagram to match the pin number we use in programming and the physical pin location.
Note the chip will run at 1 MHz in the above example, as specified when selecting the ATtiny board in the IDE. If you want to run it at 8 MHz you need to use select a different board option and also the burnbootloader option. It does not really burn a bootloader on your ATtiny chip, it will only set the fuses to another clock-speed. Also it’s recommended to connect an 0.1 uF capacitor between VCC and GND, and an 10 Kohm resistor between RESET and VCC when running at this speed.
Easiest way to debug the Arduino is using Serial.print() function, and fortunately you can also do that on the Attiny2313 too.
I have not got a ATtiny4313 yet so I can’t test this Arduino programming method on it. But they seems to be very similar as they appear on the same datasheet. The datasheet says “The ATtiny2313A and ATtiny4313 differ only in memory sizes.” So I suppose all you need to do is to select the different board before upload the sketch in the IDE. I will update this section once I am sure of this, or let me know to confirm it if you have done it.
Connecting the cables every time you want to program a ATtiny chip is quite time-consuming and messy. This instructable is quite handy if you are a frequency ATtiny chip programmer.